F.A.Q.

Test. Your. Product.

There are way too many variables that go into a canned beverage to be able to “calculate” its shelf life, but there are a few things you can do to maximize it. CO₂ purging, leaving little to no headspace, bottom-filling, and seaming as cold as possible, will all help eliminate potential oxygen in the can. We recommend testing a single batch at different time intervals to help gauge your own specific process.

Check out our video where we answer just that!

Labeled cans take about 3-4 weeks from final artwork approval.

Filling and sealing as full and as cold as possible can help non-carbonated beverages from feeling “squishy” in the can after being sealed.  Other methods like nitrogen dosing before seaming are common in the packaging industry, but require additional machinery.

We warranty our machines for 1 Year, and are here beyond that for purchasable wear parts and tech support.

Carriers categorize pricing by volume and density, and cans are high-volume low-weight.

All of our machines are built-to-order and take 1-2 weeks to complete and ship. You will receive a tracking number as it goes out the door. Please allow a few hours for the tracking number to go live on the carrier’s site.

Tracking numbers may take up to a few hours to go live on the carrier’s end after being picked up. Our daily UPS and USPS pick ups are around 4pm EST (may slightly vary from day to day), so please check back in the evening on the day you receive the tracking.

See for yourself on our new Oktober Labs series.

Brite cans on the same order as a seamer will typically be shipped at the same time as the seamer. We can ship them early by request, and will do so automatically if ordered separately.

There are several end types, including B64, SuperEnds, and CDL.  While each profile is similar, and can be considered to perform equally, they each require separate upper chucks.  Choosing which end type is as simple as determining which type your can/end supplier has available.  If purchasing cans through Oktober, our standard end type is the B64.  If you are sourcing cans from another vendor, ask them which ends that provide (202 LOE is NOT enough information).

Wipedown/ clean: Every session of use

Clean/ grease lower shaft: Once per day of use

Clean/ grease bearing and wavespring: Once per week of use

Clean/ grease SL1 rollers: Every 500 cans or so.

[Model 7 Manual]

[MK Series Manual]

[SL1 Manual]

Lid varieties are not only different sizes, but also seamed to different specifications. Because of this, all the tooling components have to be different to properly seal.

Unfortunately, 8oz stubbys have been out nationwide for some time. We have heard from multiple can suppliers that they do not expect them at all in 2021.

8oz sleeks use the same lids, and can be done on the same machine, but will need a different height adapter and can guides.

[Adapter]

[Can Guide]

Calibration is needed after changing tooling (Model 7), but otherwise is not needed as long as seams are in spec. Seams should be inspected every few thousand cans, or if issues/leaks arise.

M7 tooling changes take about 15-20mins and requires calibration each time.

Here is our video on how to re-tool.

Here is our video on how to calibrate.

Make sure you are doing Operation 1, then Operation 2, and never doing 1 after 2, or both at the same time. One other common cause of leaking cans is a lack of base-force. (upward clamping pressure)

This can come on suddenly if your wavespring breaks or goes missing during cleaning.
On older MK models, a bent or broken base adjuster can also cause this issue.

We now have a special tool that allows you to press the pins out and back in.

Link to tool.

Link to video.

Operation levers can really only break if the threads holding them in place are loose. Make sure you and your staff know to keep them tight in their assemblies, and to not use too much force while seaming. 

We threaded the lever hole all of the way through. On the Model 7, you will need to remove the sheet metal stop bracket to expose the other side. You can then use the slow, steady pressure of a 1/8th in. drill bit to spin them the rest of the way through and out the other side (you won’t actually drill into the steel).

Residue from beer and other bevies can build up on the roller over time. In addition to wiping down with a warm wet rag every day, you can periodically drop the roller assembly out to soak in hot water with a pinch of dish soap.

If residue has ingressed too far to the center of the roller, we now have a special tool to be able to clean and lubricate at the center of the wheel.

“Wooling” is a can seaming defect caused by the first operation roller being too high. Also, check to make sure both your rollers are spinning freely. If either are seized, they can cause shavings to appear.

Check the vertical alignment of your rollers.

Video guide here.

Base adjusters normally only bend or break if there is too much resistance in the lower lifter shaft. We recommend thoroughly cleaning and re-greasing the lifter periodically in general, and certainly so if a base adjuster fails.

Retooling for different diameters was not possible on the MK generation.

It is something we were only recently able to engineer for the new Model 7.